This consistency in quality has been achieved through the long-standing commitment by major European wine producing countries to preserve the terroir of their wines. Throughout France, for instance, the regional origin of the wine is of paramount importance. Even in New World wines, which are generally named for their grape varietal, region remains an important part of the label. Anybody who drinks even an occasional glass of wine knows there’s a difference between Cabernet Sauvignon from the Napa Valley and Cab from, say, Vermont. (Sorry, Vermont. Sometime I’ll write about your cheese, and we’ll blast California together.)
So, in the Rhone Valley, you will rarely see the word Syrah on the label (although that, too has been happening occasionally as the marketing people get more savvy) rather, the most prominent name on the label will be the region, or even the particular town the wine comes from. And because the laws regarding winemaking are so strict in France, a little investigation will tell you, to a large degree of accuracy, exactly what grape varietals are in the bottle. A few examples of Syrah-based wines made in the northern Rhone:
Cote Rotie (Syrah with up to 20% Viognier)
St. Joseph (often 100% Syrah, but may be blended with up to 10% Marsanne and/or Roussanne)
Hermitage (Syrah with up to 15% Marsanne and/or Roussanne)
Cornas (must be 100% Syrah)
Wines from the southern valley become much more complicated (but no less delicious) due to the huge number of varietals grown there. Most notably (and perhaps most recognizably) in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which can contain as many as eighteen different grape varietals blended to particular specifications. In addition to Syrah, the major players here are Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Carignan. As many Australian winemakers strive to produce wines of ever higher quality, the GSM label becomes more prevalent – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, a tribute to the wines of the southern Rhone that have been so excellent for so, so long.
I believe it’s the attitude this commitment to quality breeds that can be useful to promoting sustainability throughout agriculture. Let’s worry less about organics and more about quality and origin, small farms in our nearby communities versus large farms churning out organics for sale at WalMart. In relation to these wines, the fact is that very few of them are certified organic, but they are made with such care and with such individual attention that their quality, as well as their safety, is absolutely assured. If only we could be so sure of our spinach.
So, back to wine blogging, and a couple of suggestions:
For great wines from around the Rhone Valley, try Chapoutier, a negociant that consistently produces excellent single vineyard wines. Recently, I had a bottle of their ‘Deschants’ Saint Joseph – 100% Syrah with an incredibly floral aroma, medium bodied, really lovely balance of earthiness to fresh pear fruit, and a long, spicy, lingering finish. Just wonderful.
Interestingly, Chapoutier has also delved into Australian winemaking and produces some excellent, affordable Shiraz under the label Domaine Tournon. The vineyards used to produce these wines are all organic. Try the Domaine Tournon Shiraz (Western Victoria) for a great example – at around $12, it makes for a great any-occasion wine.
Chapoutier wines can be found in any wine shop of size, and are easily picked out on the shelf due to their label’s pointed lack of grooviness – plain white labels give the vintage, explain what the wine is and where it’s from. So look past the Molly Dooker and all the colorful eye-catchers lined up next to it, and rest assured, you will not be missing out.
No photos this time round - sorry about that. I'm still hunting for a happy looking chicken, the ultimate example of the benefits of sustainable agriculture. How will I relate the happy chicken to wine? Just wait for my next post: Drunken Chicken (the happiest kind).
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